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PC Modifications. See general Picture Gallery.

At the end of 2002, I became aware of the trend to modify one's computer case. I have no specific desire to make a fancy computer case. I will however make a few changes, so it will match my choice of colors.

I have collected a Picture Gallery of other pc-mods that I find inspiring and educational. One day I may make my own suitcase or toolbox pc.

For now I just want to silence the computers I have running. Also I want to have easier control over the power consumption of the computer. And especially the peripherals, now that USB is catching on.

To silence my pc's I have done the following:

To enhance the functionality of the computer surroundings I have:


last edit 05-08-2003


Links
Motherboard Monitor 
Ultimate LCD driver program 
CPU specifications overview 
AnandTech - hardware analysis and news

BLUE LED voltage step-up.

To connect one of the high-bright Blue LED as the Power on indicator, one need more voltage than for a regular LED. Regular LED use 2.2 to 2.4 volt, where as some of  the brighter LED needs 2.6 to 3.2 Volt to work. (See tables below)
With the use of a transistor and two resistors, one can make a low power switch that is controlled by the power from the old green LED, and it will supply enough voltage to make the new flashier LED work.

You can basically use any one of the small signal NPN transistors. Below are diagrams of two kinds that I often use, as they are cheap, and easy to get your hands on. 
The cheaper of the two, the BC547 runs a max of 100mA, the BC639 runs a max of 500mA. Notice how the pins come in different order "ecb" and "cbe" .

LEDs should not be run higher than 20mA


max 500mA, 80V


max 100mA, 45V

 

This is the schematic of the complete circuitry you need for a step-up power switch for LEDs

The trim pot. can be 470 ohm.

The 10K ohm resistor is to protect the transistor.

If you want a more precise value of the trim potentiometer then you need to decide how many milli amps (mA) you want going through the led, and then do a simple calculation.

The transistor uses 1.2 Volt, this leaves 3.8V between the LED and the Trim.

The tables below show how many milliAmps you get by applying a certain voltage over the different kinds of LED.

If we thoose the Bright Blue LED as our example, and we want 3.3mA worth of light. It needs 2.8V, leaving 1V for the Trim. 

From Ohms Law U=R*I  and  R=U/I we find:
1V/3.3mA = 1/0.0033 = 303 Ohm

I have calculated the Ohms needed for each of the measurements in the tables below, so you can see for your self, the interval you need for the Trim resistor.

Trim Resistor Ohm is found by applying this formula:
(SupplyVoltage-(1.2+voltage over LED))/mA in LED = T.ohm

Below are the results of some measurements I made, on the different LED I had in my drawer. 

Regular LED

T.ohm

1.86V

3.2mA

Start to see the light

606 
1.92V 5.0mA Okay Light 376
2.0V 10.0mA  Nice light 180 
2.28V 21.0mA Good Light 72 
2.67V 50mA Not any brighter 23 
3.0V 68mA Burning too hot, light is going down 12 
Bright Blue LED

T.ohm

2.44V 0.2mA

Start to see the light

6.800 
2.53V 0.5mA Okay Light 2.540 
2.63V 1.3mA Plenty of light 900 
2.80V 3.3mA Lots of light 303 
2.91V 5.0mA pain distance 1-2 feet 178 
3.12V 10mA pain distance 7-8 feet 68 
3.4V 20mA pain distance >10 feet 20 
Bright White LED

T.ohm

2.6V 0.2mA

Start to see the light

6.000 
2.81V 1.8mA Okay Light 550 
2.91V 3.0mA Plenty of light 297 
2.99V 5.0mA Lots of light 162 
3.12V 7.5mA pain distance 1-2 feet 91 
3.28V 12.5mA pain distance 6-7 feet 42 
3.52V 20mA pain distance >9 feet 14 
Bright Red LED

T.ohm

1.54V 0.4mA

Start to see the light

5.650 
1.67V 2.0mA Okay Light 1.065 
1.76V 3.8mA Plenty of light 537 
1.85V 6.4mA Lots of light 305 
2.00V 12.0mA pain distance 1-2 feet 150 
2.20V 20mA pain distance 3-4 feet 80 
This illustrates what is the positive and the negative side of a LED.

I remember it by thinking of the flat side of a battery, as it has the same value as the flat side of a LED.

 


External Power

I do not run any over clocking, and I have measured the pc's to currently use less than 30Watts, this should leave plenty power to run some of the peripherals from the pc power supply. It is a 200Watts standard power supply, and even though it may not be able to deliver all of that much power, I think I can at least get some 75% of the listed max. Amps.

Using a D-sub9 female connector (to make it different from the serial port) I now run my External IOmega CD-burner using this power source.
I have also added mini-jack connectors for 12V and I will later add mini-jack connectors for 6V external power.

One of the added bonuses I get from using the pc power supply for external boxes is that I can now unplug all those little transformers that seems to be colleting in greater and greater numbers. My last count reached 16 such transformers.

And each of them draw current, even when the device is turned off. That is right, since they are transformers they stay connected even when you turn your pc or the device off. Using 5-15 watts each 24 hours a day, weather you are using the device or not. With 16 devices each using an average of 10 watts, that is 160 watts an hour! Or 3.8KWh a day, which adds up to some 1400 kWh a year.

 

IOMega External Power. Red 12V, Blue 5V, Black GND

D-sub 9 External Power pinout
1 Blocked - to avoid accidental connection of non power wires.
2 5V
3 6V (not yet)
4 12V
5 15V (not yet)
6 Gnd (pc power)
7 Gnd (nc)
8 Gnd (nc)
9 Gnd (nc)

 

Case 4-position switch
Common Brown
pos 1 (top) green
pos 2 green
pos 3 orange
pos 4 (lowest) orange