BLUE LED voltage step-up.
Some of the new high-bright LEDs needs a slightly higher voltage than the traditional LEDs. Using a small-signal transistor as a sort of relay, it is very simple and easy to use the old LED signal to turn the new bright LEDs On/Off.
Regular LEDs use 2.2 to 2.4 volt, where as some of the brighter LEDs needs 2.6 to 3.2 Volt to work. (See tables below) With the use of a transistor and two resistors, one can make a low power switch that is controlled by the power from the old green LED, and it will supply enough voltage to make the new flashier LED work. The transistor can basically be any small-signal NPN transistor, capable of running minimum 25mA For odds and ends I use these two kinds; the BC547 runs a max of 100mA, the BC639 runs a max of 500mA. Unless specifically noted otherwise, LEDs should not be run higher than 20mA |
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Notice how the pins come in different order "ecb" and
"cbe" . |
If you want a more precise value of the trim potentiometer then you need to decide how many milli amps (mA) you want going through the led, and then do a simple calculation. The transistor uses 1.2 Volt, this leaves 3.8V between the LED and the Trim. |
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The tables below show how many milliAmps you get by applying a certain voltage over the different kinds of LED. If we thoose the Bright Blue LED as our example, and we want 3.3mA worth of light. It needs 2.8V, leaving 1V for the Trim.From Ohms Law U=R*I and R=U/I we find: In other words the Trim Resistor Ohm is found by applying this formula: I have calculated the Ohms needed for each of the measurements in the tables below, so you can see for your self, the interval you need for the Trim resistor, or a standard resistor. Again the recommended current for a LED is 20mA Below are the results of some measurements I made, on the different LED I had in my drawer. The column 5V has the Ohm value if you just have a LED and a resistor between GND and 5V The column 12V has the Ohm value if you just have a LED and a resistorbetween GND and 12V |
Regular LED |
T.ohm |
5V |
12V |
||
1.86V |
3.2mA |
Start to see the light |
606 | 981 | 3.169 |
1.92V | 5.0mA | Okay Light | 376 | 616 | 2.016 |
2.0V | 10.0mA | Nice light | 180 | 300 | 1.000 |
2.28V | 21.0mA | Good Light | 72 | 130 | 463 |
2.67V | 50mA | Not any brighter | 23 | 47 | 187 |
3.0V | 68mA | Burning too hot, light is going down | 12 | 29 | 132 |
Bright Blue LED |
T.ohm |
5V |
12V |
||
2.44V | 0.2mA |
Start to see the light |
6.8k | 12.8k | 47.8k |
2.53V | 0.5mA | Okay Light | 2.540 | 4.940 | 18.940 |
2.63V | 1.3mA | Plenty of light | 900 | 1.823 | 7.208 |
2.80V | 3.3mA | Lots of light | 303 | 667 | 2.788 |
2.91V | 5.0mA | pain distance 1-2 feet | 178 | 418 | 1.818 |
3.12V | 10mA | pain distance 7-8 feet | 68 | 188 | 888 |
3.4V | 20mA | pain distance >10 feet | 20 | 80 | 430 |
Bright White LED |
T.ohm |
5V |
12V |
||
2.6V | 0.2mA |
Start to see the light |
6k | 12k | 47k |
2.81V | 1.8mA | Okay Light | 550 | 1.217 | 5.106 |
2.91V | 3.0mA | Plenty of light | 297 | 697 | 3.030 |
2.99V | 5.0mA | Lots of light | 162 | 402 | 1.802 |
3.12V | 7.5mA | pain distance 1-2 feet | 91 | 251 | 1.184 |
3.28V | 12.5mA | pain distance 6-7 feet | 42 | 138 | 698 |
3.52V | 20mA | pain distance >9 feet | 14 | 74 | 424 |
Bright Red LED |
T.ohm |
5V |
12V |
||
1.54V | 0.4mA |
Start to see the light |
5.650 | 8.650 | 26.150 |
1.67V | 2.0mA | Okay Light | 1.065 | 1.665 | 5.165 |
1.76V | 3.8mA | Plenty of light | 537 | 853 | 2.695 |
1.85V | 6.4mA | Lots of light | 305 | 492 | 1.586 |
2.00V | 12.0mA | pain distance 1-2 feet | 150 | 250 | 833 |
2.20V | 20mA | pain distance 3-4 feet | 80 | 140 | 490 |
This illustrates what is the positive and the
negative side of a LED. I remember it by thinking of the flat side of a battery, as it has the same value as the flat side of a LED. |